Tips April 26

Tack and Saddle Cleaning Tips

Your leather tack and saddles are a long-time investment that are worth putting a little extra effort into to keep them in top condition. Cleaning and conditioning gives you a chance to do a pre-ride check before you venture out on that first ride of the season. It also weatherizes the leather keeping it durable and protected from the horse's sweat. Cleaned and conditioned equipment is worth more for resale or trade-in value.

Likewise, although easier to maintain, synthetic equipment should be cleaned at regular intervals to insure its quality and worth. Most synthetic tack and saddle manufacturers provide easy care instructions. Regular

cleaning will wash off body salts and help prevent the material from breaking down.

3 Simple Steps to Basic Leather Care

Before you begin you will need the following items: a small bucket for water, a sponge, small brush, several soft cloths, pure neatsfoot oil, glycerin soap, and a leather conditioner.

1. Thoroughly clean the leather with a damp sponge, cloth or soft brush.

There are several leather cleaners available, however, most equipment manufacturers recommend a good cleaning with glycerin soap and water. Using a damp sponge, wipe the leather down to remove dust and surface dirt. Rinse the sponge clean and apply cleaner to it. Glycerin is not only a mild cleansing agent, but helps condition the leather, but not enough to be used alone. It comes in a spray-on liquid form, or as a bar or cake in a tin. All work equally well. Don't be afraid to get the leather wet, but avoid soaking it. As long as it is evenly wet, it will not harm it, but may darken it. Part of the leather manufacturing and tooling processes require that the leather is soaked, so this will not be the first time that is has been wet.

3 Easy Steps to Leather Care

1. clean leather with glycerin soap

2. apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil

3. apply a light coat of conditioner and buff

On Western saddles, make sure to clean the undersides of fenders and stirrup leathers and under double skirts and around rigging. Theses areas are dirt traps and provide dark places for mold and mildew to establish themselves. They also have the most contact with the horse's sweat and body chemicals which may breakdown the leather. Tooling can be cleaned with a tooth brush. Particular attention should be paid to cleaning the undersides and flaps on English saddles. After a good cleaning, thoroughly rinse by wiping the leather with a damp songe and clean water..

2. Apply a thin coat of pure neatsfoot oil with a clean cloth.

This is best done while the leather is still slightly damp. The oil will penetrate better if it is pre-warmed (a few seconds in the microwave works well) or the newly oiled equipment can be placed in the sun for a couple of hours. However, the saddle should not be dried in the sun as it may become stiff. It also will darken in the sun. In lieu of pre-warmed oil or sun, elbow grease will suffice. Friction from vigorous rubbing provides enough warmth for adequate application. Use a soft cloth to remove any excess surface oil and buff up the leather to a sheen. Be careful not to apply too much oil as excesses will weaken and break down the leather.

3. Apply a conditioner for extra protection.

There are several wax-based leather conditioners available at your local tack shop. Most will afford some resistance to rain. They are generally a cream type application, but some may also be a liquid. Apply the conditioner to a soft cloth and rub vigorously into the leather. When finished, allow to dry and buff with a soft cloth

When to Apply and How Often

There are so many products that it becomes difficult to determine when you should apply what items. In general, neatsfoot oil is only needed twice per year. A good cleaning and application at the end of the riding season will help protect against dry heat during storage, or winter weather if you continue riding through the cold months. If you cleaned and stored your saddle over the winter, then a quick wipe down with a damp cloth and a light application of oil is all that is needed. However, if you continued riding throughout the winter, then another thorough cleaning will remove dust and grime gathered from indoor arenas or outside weather. Follow this with an application of oil as instructed in the steps above.

At any time that you apply a coat of oil, you should make sure that your equipment is thoroughly clean or it will make a layer of sticky grime that builds up on your tack. Additionally, applying too much oil or conditioner will result in similar problems. If you have a quality saddle, then the leather has been pre-treated and should only need maintenance . . . not total reapplication. In cases where you are revitalizing neglected leather, then a thicker application may be appropriate.

Conditioning is usually done more often. Some people prefer to clean and condition their saddles every time they ride. However, this often leads to a build up on the equipment. Although it makes the leather very soft, over- oiling or conditioning can be harmful. It eventually breaks down the cellular structure of the leather fibers and weakens it causing a potential for breakage.

Besides the obvious differences between English and Western style saddles, there is also a difference in how much cleaning each needs. Normally, Western saddles only come in light contact with the horse's body at the rigging and fender areas. They are lined with fleece or felt and are generally used with a pad or blanket that keeps the saddle clean and protected from the horse's sweat. However, English saddles are close contact. That is, they make more contact with the horse's body. The underside is leather rather than lined and they are generally used with lightweight pads that offer little in the way of protection from the horse's sweat. Therefore, it is advisable that English saddles be cleaned and conditioned more frequently than Western style saddles.

Cleaning Synthetic Tack

Most synthetic tack can be cleaned in two easy steps. Using a stiff brush, remove hair, dirt, and body salts. Then using a wet brush and mild soap, scrub the saddle. You can rinse with a sponge and clean water or turn on the hose.

You should be aware that not all synthetics are created equal and some are not weather-resistant and should not be cleaned following these instructions.

Some Things to Consider

You probably notice throughout this week's tip the recommendation to use pure neatsfoot oil. The reason for this is that neatsfoot compounds (often labeled as "neatsfoot oil"), although more economical, contain other oils that may damage your saddle, especially the stitching. Many contain oils recommended for mechanical devices (metal) not leather and the chemicals in these compounds will breakdown leather.

Beware of combination cleaners and conditioners. While promising "one step" cleaning, they generally do little in the way of cleaning and often fail to properly condition. They may also leave a difficult to remove residue that will require even more cleaning to restore the natural sheen to your leather.

When you are cleaning your tack, be sure to inspect for loose or broken stitching. While most stitching is decorative, some of it serves to hold your equipment together. Pre-ride inspections of hardware, rigging, and stirrup leathers will help prevent broken equipment while riding.